I’ve been a believer in the advantages of retinol ever since I met Dr. Fitzpatrick over 30 years in the past. On the time, he was the Chief of Dermatology at Mass Basic Hospital in Boston. Dr. Fitzpatrick was instrumental in getting tretinoin FDA-approved for the remedy of wrinkles (previous to that, it was solely getting used to deal with pimples). I vividly keep in mind seeing how certainly one of his palms—the hand he utilized tretinoin to throughout demonstrations to his pimples sufferers—was considerably smoother and brighter than the opposite. Ultimately, I used what I had discovered about retinoids from Dr. Fitzpatrick to develop my very own retinol serum. 

I’ve been watching my shoppers get superb outcomes from retinol for many years. And but, individuals are nonetheless confused concerning the correct software strategies. And I get it! Retinol is a strong ingredient, so the way you apply it may possibly have an effect on your pores and skin’s response. On this publish, I’ll deal with one of many questions I get requested most frequently: “How lengthy ought to I let my retinol soak in earlier than making use of moisturizer?” 

The reply is a bit more sophisticated than you may suppose, however hopefully, the knowledge I’m about to share will shed some gentle. Let’s dive in!

How Lengthy Ought to You Let Retinol Soak in Earlier than Making use of Moisturizer?

After making use of your retinol product, it’s finest to attend roughly 10 minutes earlier than shifting on to the subsequent step in your routine.

Once you apply a moisturizer immediately after a remedy product like retinol, you dilute the lively components. The moisturizer basically “picks up” a few of the product beneath and spreads it round. That is why, to get probably the most bang in your buck, it’s splendid to let your retinol totally soak in and get absorbed for about 10 minutes. It’s a surefire strategy to stop dilution and can make the retinol stronger.

With that in thoughts, some folks might should take a milder method, and it typically will depend on which sort of retinol you’re utilizing.

The Kind of Retinol You Use Can Make a Distinction

There are a lot of various kinds of retinol, however for the sake of this publish, I’ll cut up it into two primary classes. The primary is prescription retinoids, and the second is non-prescription retinol merchandise.

Prescription retinoids are an FDA-approved drug, they usually’re a lot stronger than non-prescription retinol. It is because prescription retinoids are pure retinoic acid, that means your pores and skin doesn’t should convert them. They will get proper to work. Non-prescription retinol merchandise are available in a wide range of strengths, however all of them should undergo a sure variety of conversions earlier than changing into retinoic acid.

Prescription Retinoids

Since prescription retinoids are stronger, they’re extra more likely to trigger undesirable unintended effects akin to redness, flaking, dryness, and irritation. This implies most individuals gained’t be capable of bounce proper into letting their retinol soak in for 10 minutes earlier than making use of moisturizer. As an alternative, it’s finest to work your approach up incrementally. Begin through the use of moisturizer instantly after making use of your prescription. After per week, wait a minute or two earlier than making use of your moisturizer (and so forth). 

Should you’re actually struggling to tolerate your prescription, you may even begin by making use of a skinny layer of moisturizer earlier than you apply the retinoid (after which once more after). This creates a buffer or a “moisture sandwich,” and it may possibly actually assist mitigate these nasty unintended effects. Many individuals fear that their retinoid gained’t work in the event that they apply moisturizer first, however it should—it should simply take longer to see the outcomes. Should you’re experiencing severe irritation, although, it’s definitely worth the wait to keep away from this. 

When you ought to at all times attempt to keep away from severe irritation, remember the fact that it’s regular to expertise flaking while you begin utilizing a prescription. Technically, this implies it’s working. After you apply retinol, it takes about 48 hours to see flaking. So, should you can tolerate it, enable this part of retinization to run its course. If you wish to keep away from flaking or have an occasion developing, you may proceed to buffer with moisturizer. 

Lastly, do not forget that the journey doesn’t should be linear. You may at all times make changes based mostly in your pores and skin’s wants, taking issues like seasonal modifications into consideration. For instance, come winter, you may revert to a shorter window between retinol and moisturizer software.

Should you’re utilizing a prescription retinoid, right here’s how the remainder of your skincare routine ought to change.

Non-Prescription Retinol

Non-prescription retinol merchandise are slightly simpler since they’re much less more likely to trigger irritation, however they nonetheless shouldn’t be underestimated. At all times err on the aspect of warning and slowly work your approach as much as letting your non-prescription retinol soak in for the total 10 minutes.

You may be taught extra about learn how to incorporate retinol into your routine by following this Newbie’s Information to Retinol and Retinoids. 

Ought to You Apply Retinol to Dry or Damp Pores and skin?

Making use of your retinol to damp pores and skin is finest (should you can tolerate it). Per my Golden Minute Rule, I at all times advocate swiping a toner on proper after cleaning to forestall water evaporation. Then, I recommend making use of your remedy product (on this case, retinol) whereas your pores and skin remains to be barely damp from the toner as this enhances penetration. This additionally permits the pores and skin to remain hydrated and helps keep your moisture barrier.

One caveat is that, since making use of a product to damp pores and skin enhances penetration, it might doubtlessly additionally result in elevated irritation (particularly with a prescription retinoid). On this case, apply your toner, then let the pores and skin dry for about one minute. You don’t need to wait for much longer than that since that is when water evaporation begins to happen, which might backfire and result in dehydration. 

Lastly, slugging could also be a stylish approach to enhance barrier perform, however it is best to by no means slug when utilizing lively components like retinol or exfoliating acids. Since petrolatum is so occlusive, it should power these components deeper into the pores and skin, which may rapidly result in irritation. Right here’s all the things you want to find out about slugging.

Superstar Esthetician & Skincare Professional
As an esthetician skilled in beauty chemistry, Renée Rouleau has spent 30 years researching pores and skin, educating her viewers, and constructing an award-winning line of merchandise. Her hands-on expertise as an esthetician and trusted skincare professional has created a real-world answer — merchandise which can be formulated for 9 various kinds of pores and skin so your face will get precisely what it must feel and appear its finest. Trusted by celebrities, editors, bloggers, and skincare obsessives across the globe, her huge real-world information and fixed analysis are why Marie Claire calls her “probably the most passionate pores and skin practitioner we all know.”